Eating rice cakes is like chewing on a foam coffee cup, only less filling. ~Dave Barry

One Star


Trader Joe’s Meatless Corn Dogs

March 31, 2008 | Reviewer: Abi

Trader Joe’s Meatless Corn DogsPrice: $2.59
Serving: 1 corn dog, 2.5oz.
Calories: 160
Fat: 5%, 3.5g
Cholesterol: 0%, 0mg
Sodium: 23%, 560mg
Protein: 9g
Carbs: 7%, 22g
Fiber: 4%, 1g
Sugar: 4g
Weight Watchers Points: 3 Points

*

Trader Joe says: Low Fat, 4 grams of Soy Protein per Serving

Abi says: Yes, I’m still on the eternal quest for the perfect corn dog. I want something that reminds me of a carnival, complete with funnel cakes, rickety ferris wheels and goldfish that meet unfortunate deaths via ping-pong ball games.

Trader Joe’s meatless version comes nowhere near the actuality of a corn dog. I find this confusing because the meat in corn dogs is so far away from actual animal muscle that I’m surprised it can’t be replicated with vegetable products. I suspect that my Morningstar Sausage-related hypothesis of the need for connective tissue comes into play here as well.

The first problem with these corn dogs is the lack of snap. I know, that sounds disgusting. It is disgusting. And there’s no way to describe ’snap’ better than the resistance a hot dog has to being eaten. Yes, I judge food based on how much it doesn’t want to be consumed. The second problem with these corn dogs is the batter. Even after being baked in a real oven the interior of the cornbread breading was wet rather than fluffy. Considering that I base a large portion of my food judgments on texture it wasn’t surprising that I only took a couple of bites of the corn dog.

The box of three leftover corn dogs then sat in my freezer for a month before I decided to toss them in favor or newer, more exciting frozen items.

I don’t buy fake meats for my own amusement. I buy them because I think there’s a chance they’ll make plausible substitutes for real, less-healthy meats. I buy them hoping that I can lower the amount of fossil fuels used to create my meals (and yet I run this website). And I buy them with the hope that someday cloned, cultured meat will exist and I won’t have to make these choices anymore.

Further information on meat:

  1. Hot Dog Reviews at Slate.com
  2. Cloned/Cultured meat
  3. Reviews of healthy food at the new Nationals stadium

Lunchables Jr. Teddy Grahams, Mozzarella and Strawberry Yogurt Flavored Dip

March 24, 2008 | Reviewer: Abi

Lunchables Jr. Teddy Grahams, Mozzarella and Strawberry Yogurt Flavored Dip - Artificially and Naturally FlavoredPrice: $2.00 (on sale)
Serving: 1 snack, 2.25oz. plus water
Calories: 140
Fat: 9%, 6g
Cholesterol: 3%, 10mg
Sodium: 11%, 270mg
Protein: 6g
Carbs: 5%, 16g
Fiber: 2%, <1g
Sugar: 8g
Weight Watchers Points: 4 Points

*

Lunchables says: Little food for little hands. Lunchables Jr. is the perfect snack for your child who is always “on the go.” Made with wholesome ingredients, Lunchables Jr. provides fun that’s sure to keep your little one engaged.

Abi says: I admit it, when I first saw this Lunchables Jr. I thought “Yes, I want some Teddy Grahams, mozzarella and yogurt!” This is my ideal snack and I was worried that the folks at Lunchables were reading my mind. Who doesn’t love sweet crackers and cultured dairy products?

Then I had the misfortune to actually eat this meal/snack/overly plastic-coated item.

  • Teddy Grahams: Pretty much the most delicious thing ever. Small animal-shaped carbohydrates win every time, be they generic animal crackers, cheese flavored fish or teddy-bear shaped graham crackers. Yum.
  • Pasteurized Prepared Mozzarella Cheese Product: The name says it all. Oscar Mayer discovered a way to make mozzarella cheese inedible. This soft, flavorless-yet-offensive cheese was cut into slices, which confused the heck out of me. I guess they’re worried that small children will choke on standard string-cheese-style mozzarella. Fortunately, future choking risk is averted because this cheese will just make them hate mozzarella altogether.
  • Strawberry Yogurt Flavored Dip - Naturally and Artifically Flavored: As Jess says “I’m not eating yogurt because I want fake food coloring. It looks radioactive.” In the case of this ‘Yogurt Flavored Dip’ the color is from beet juice. However, the flavor is both artificial and natural, and it is not artificially or naturally good. I gagged when I took a bite of the yogurt and realized that I was so far from the sink that if I wanted to spit it out I’d have further to travel than if I just swallowed it and promised my taste buds that I’d never do that again.

    The first ingredient in this dip is water. Plus, it only “contains less than 2% of dehydrated yogurt.” Is there some sort of ‘Don’t feed your kids real yogurt’ rule that nobody told me? And since when is BUTTER a way to flavor STRAWBERRY YOGURT? Also, after reading the ingredients list I had to Google Titanium Dioxide. Oh, I knew what it was (thank you, addiction to making art!), I just wasn’t sure what the heck it was doing in my food. I’m tired of eating things that also appear in the NIOSH Pocket Guide to Chemical Hazards. Titanium Dioxide belongs in sunscreen, paintings and forged maps, not my yogurt flavored dip.

All in all, I’m sure that small children (age 3-5 years) would adore this snack, which comes in a two-pack, which made it just a dollar. There are still two types of Lunchable Jr. left to consume and neither contains Strawberry Yogurt Flavored Dip, thank goodness.

Lean Cuisine Chicken Ranch Club Flatbread Melt #2

March 18, 2008 | Reviewer: Josh

Lean Cuisine Chicken Ranch Club Flatbread MeltMSRP: $4.19
Serving: 1 package, 6.5oz.
Calories: 330
Fat: 14%, 9g
Cholesterol: 8%, 20mg
Sodium: 26%, 640mg
Protein: 21g
Carbs: 14%, 41g
Fiber: 17%, 4g
Sugar: 4g
Weight Watchers Points: 7 Points

*

Lean Cuisine says: White meat chicken, tomato, bacon, cheddar and mozzarella cheese with a ranch sauce in a soft flatbread.

Josh says: In my quest for free meals and after my positive experience with the Lean Cuisine Chicken Philly Flatbread Melt, I decided to try the chicken ranch club. Much like the chicken Philly, the ranch club’s chicken didn’t have much taste. With the exception of one or two bites that had an unusual concentration of tomatoes or “bacon bits,” the meal amounted to little more than spreading a layer of ranch dressing on soft warm (somewhat rubbery) bread. For some reason the meal reminded me of that famous Anne Richards line about George Bush, Sr: “He was born with a silver foot in his mouth.” I bet it tasted better than the Lean Cuisine Chicken Ranch Club Flatbread Melt.

[This meal was free from the folks at Lean Cuisine. Nicole also reviewed the Lean Cuisine Chicken Ranch Club Flatbread Melt. Her review has a lovely photo and no references to Texas. -Ed.]

Amy’s Tortilla Casserole and Black Beans Bowl

January 30, 2008 | Reviewer: Abi

Amy’s Tortilla Casserole and Black Beans BowlPrice: $5.19
Serving: 1 bowl, 9.5oz.
Calories: 390
Fat: 28%, 18g
Cholesterol: 8%, 25mg
Sodium: 33%, 780mg
Protein: 18g
Carbs: 14%, 41g
Fiber: 28%, 7g
Weight Watchers Points: 8 Points

*

Amy’s Kitchen says: This casserole is based on a popular Mexican dish called “Chilaquiles.” When Amy’s parents first tasted it in Oaxaca they came back and asked Amy’s chefs to find the recipe. One of the chefs (whose family had owned a Mexican restaurant in San Francisco) was already familiar with the dish and adapted it to suit Amy’s Standards . . . organic ingredients, fewer “hot” spices, and less fat. The result is delicious and might remind you of a bowl of “nachos” made with organic baked corn chips and melted cheddar and jack cheeses. Plus . . . an assortment of organic vegetables and our own homemade fresh tofu. On the side are delicately seasoned slow-cooked black beans, making this gluten free meal in a bowl thoroughly satisfying.

Abi says: My apologies for the longest frozen food origin explanation in the world. It seems that the people at Amy’s Kitchen (and hey, if y’all are reading this, can I come visit you and tour the factory? Please?) ate a version of my most favorite hangover food EVER, came back to the United States, de-Mexicanized it, added tofu, and are now selling it as tortilla casserole.

When I saw this at the grocery store I was unnaturally excited about a frozen product. I was so eager to try this that I broke my cardinal rule of frozen food and paid a full $5.19 for this bowl.

As a person of Latin American heritage and a general enjoyer of food, I understand now that I made a mistake. Now I know how Italians feel when they think of Chef Boyardee. Where are the layers of flavor usually evident in Amy’s Kitchen meals? Where is the cheese? Why does the tofu have to be so obviously tofu-looking?

This bowl is full of mushy corn tortillas, bland tomato sauce (it would seem a shame to call it salsa or mole), and a healthy side of black beans. I know that it is possible to make a completely awesome meal out of those ingredients. However, this meal is not awesome. The bowl is filling, but it is also boring. It is so boring that at one point while eating it (during an I-want-to-be-President debate) I said out loud “Wow, this is boring.” and George asked “Hillary?” and I said “Well, her too, but I was talking about this meal.” And then he looked at it in a way that said ‘Yeah, it is not as good as my microwaved mini pizza.’

When something from Amy’s Kitchen is beat by a 79¢ pizza, you know there’s a problem. This meal makes me sad because I worry that an entire generation of healthful frozen food eating Americans are going to think of tortilla casserole or chilaquiles and they’ll think of this bowl.

This isn’t how it is folks and this isn’t how it has to be. If you’re looking for something Mexicanish and in the Amy’s Kitchen line, stick with the Santa Fe Enchilada Bowl, the Cheese Enchilada Meal or the Mexican Tamale Pie (just 2 points). Any of those is a terrific alternative to this dud.

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